It’s Christmas time and if you are holidaying away from the madness (I for sure am – in Salzburg, Austria!), it’s always nicer to know the correct way of saying “Merry Christmas” to the natives. And who in their right mind would pass up the chance to enjoy their holiday country’s traditional Christmas delicacies, many of which are now cooked up only during this time of the year? So, read. And learn.
Archives for December 2014
Ice breakers: The most jaw-dropping facts about Santa Claus you’ve (n)ever heard
Do you believe in Santa Claus? I do. And I also pity the poor old man for the frantic rush that is Christmas. Because when I am going out of my mind buying gifts for the 38 people on my list, imagine the sheer craziness of delivering pretty packages to 1,817,989,536 kids (yes, that’s a real statistic). That too, around the world. Which means that he needs to travel at twice the speed of light and can only afford to spend 0.0005 seconds in each house.
How do I know all this AND more (like the fact that Santa starts deliveries from New Zealand)? Because the nice people over at iGo put together this superb infographic based on scientific calculations. If you believe in Santa, it will make you appreciate the man even more. If you don’t believe in him (why?) it will still give you some fabulous ice breakers and talking points for the next gathering.
The bluffer’s guide to jazz: How to pass yourself off as an expert
Jazz is the soundtrack of smoky rooms and free spirited evenings. It’s the tune of decadent, Great Gatsby style parties and cultural renaissance. The foundation stone of the Roaring Twenties, when flappers danced away any pretence of rules and conventions on glittering nights. It’s the song of rebellion, of Prohibition-era speakeasies, where pleasure ruled and outlawed liquor flowed freely. It’s the music of philosophers, of music theory savants, of legendary musicians.
Jazz. It’s a form of music that’s been associated with freedom, movement and individual expression for more than a 100 years.
Jazz. It’s the music that’s everywhere right now. The music that everyone’s talking about. The music that few of us really understand. It’s also intimidating as hell for newcomers.
So first, what is jazz?
Jazz is the hardest music form to define because it so organic. But broadly speaking, it has the following attributes:
Improvisation: Jazz players are constantly improvising, literally making up the music on the spot. They may start off with a known melody, then interpret it individually. This makes jazz spontaneous and energetic.
Variety: Jazz thrives on instrumental diversities, unlike classical music which is based on orchestral symphony.
Rhythm: Jazz is full of rhythmic surprises (called syncopation), where the emphasis of a song is shifted to unaccented beats and notes.
Instruments: The main instruments used during a jazz recital are bass, piano, drums, saxophone and the trumpet.
The essence of jazz: Soulfulness
There is an emotional urgency in jazz that comes from its place deep in the individual musician’s imagination and psyche.
The origins of jazz
The roots of jazz go back to the Southern fields of America, where black slaves invoked native songs from their African homelands. Gradually, this music was infused with Caribbean and Latin strains, along with gospel, blues and European classics to create one of the most richly textured music forms the world has ever heard.
Jazz goes to New Orleans
Jazz started its current form in the black ghettos of New Orleans at the end of the 19th century. And its commonly believed that Buddy Bolden was the first jazz musician, having formed his first band in 1895.
And then travels to the world
In the 1920s jazz moved up river to Chicago and New York as African Americans migrated in search of a better life. The main protagonist was trumpeter Louis Armstrong, who left New Orleans to create revolutionary new music in Chicago.
Forms of jazz
As the genre evolved, jazz split into a number of different styles, each of which will crop up in any conversation about the music form today.
New Orleans jazz (1920s): Closely related to the marching bands popular in New Orleans, this is typically led by a trumpet or cornet. Solos are almost non-existent and the emphasis is on collective improvisation.
Artists to know: Buddy Bolden, Joe “King” Oliver, Jelly Roll Morton, The Original Dixieland Jass Band
Dixieland or Chicago jazz (1920s): Inspired by New Orleans jazz, it made changes in the form of solos and incorporating the piano.
Artists to know: Louis Armstrong, James P. Johnson, Duke Ellington
Swing (1935-1945): This marked the entry of larger ensembles known as “big bands”, with simplified written arrangements and more sophisticated solos. It was more repetitious and pop friendly than other forms of jazz.
Artists to know: Fletcher Henderson, Benny Goodman, Count Basie, Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway
Bop or bebop (circa 1945): Faster, more abstract and with a spotlight on the soloist, bop took jazz to art status and out of low culture. But it lacked melody and was not meant for dancing.
Artists to know: Coleman Hawkins, Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie, Thelonious Monk, Bud Powell, Max Roach
Cool jazz or West Coast jazz (1950s and ’60s): A mixture of bop and swing, smoothing out the hard edges with less dissonance, softer tones and an emphasis on arrangements.
Artists to know: Miles Davis, Dave Brubeck, Gerry Mulligan, Chet Baker
Hard bop (1950s and ’60s): Simpler, more soulful melodies, looser rhythm sections and similarities to rhythm and blues.
Artists to know: Miles Davis Quintet, Art Blakey, John Coltrane, Sonny Rollins, Horace Silver
Free Jazz (1959-1970): Pretty much the elimination of any and all limitations, free jazz totally dispensed with any rules. It was simply based on sounds, with musicians often making squeaks and squawks by over-blowing their horns.
Artists to know: Ornette Coleman, Cecil Taylor, Charles Mingus, John Coltrane
Fusion (1967-‘70s): A combination of rock music and jazz, which is usually shunned by jazz purists.
Artists to know: Miles Davis, Weather Report, Herbie Hancock, Chick Corea, Freddie Hubbard
The most significant jazz albums
Intrigued? Want to start a jazz collection? Or simply want to namecheck a few albums for conversational purposes? All Music Guide has created a shortlist of the 15 best jazz albums to get you started.
Louis Armstrong, Plays WC Handy, 1997 version Benny Goodman, Sing, Sing, SingBillie Holiday, The Quintessential, Vol. 5
Count Basie, The Atomic Mr. Basie
Duke Ellington, Uptown
Charlie Parker, Yardbird Suite
Dizzy Gillespie, At Newport
Dave Brubeck, Time Out
Miles Davis, Kind of Blue
John Coltrane, My Favorite Things
Stan Getz, Getz / Gilberto
Wes Montgomery, The Incredible Jazz Guitar
Lee Morgan, Sidewinder
Weather Report, Heavy Weather
Wynton Marsalis, Blue Interlude
The handbag glossary: A visual guide to EVERY kind of handbag style for women in the know
Satchel. Baguette. Minaudière. Foldover. Hobo. Bucket. Frame. And so many more. The variety of handbag styles boggles the mind, doesn’t it? Fortunately, the nice people over at Scarves.com have put together this snappy visual guide to every kind handbag style known to womankind.
And dear men, you should read it as well. Chalk it up as a win during gift buying time!
The ULTIMATE guide to men’s shoes. Complete with wardrobe pairings.
Have you ever puzzled over what shoes to wear with that suit? Or whether to pick loafers or oxfords for a night on the town? Or whether brogues are all right for a wedding? Or even: what in the world ARE brogues?
Welcome. You are finally in the right place. Whether you’re a shoe aficionado, or just trying to cover your bases, this snappy guide to men’s shoes will make choosing the right pair simpler than you ever thought possible.
Men’s shoes 101: Lace-ups
The Oxford
What: Any lace-up shoes that expose the ankle.
Wear with: Can be formal or casual, depending on the type of leather and sole. A patent leather-soled version is great with a formal suit or tux. A full-grain leather topper and rubber-soled version pairs nicely with chinos or dark-wash jeans. And the thinner the soles, the more formal the Oxfords!
Balmorals
What: Oxfords drawn together by laces sewn under the front part of the shoe and then closed over its tongue. Looks like the shoe is made from one piece of leather.
Wear with: Suits and formal or semi-formal wear; won’t pair well with jeans and chinos.
Bluchers / Derby shoes
What: The lacing system is sewn on the shoe’s outside, with visible flaps. Plus, the sides of the shoe are sewn on top of the front part.
Wear with: Smart-casuals like jeans, dress shorts and sport coats; should be worn with a suit only on rainy days. Broguing, a split toe or color combinations make them more casual.
Brogues
What: Characterized by decorative perforations on the uppers, brogues can come in any shape of shoe or boot.
Wear with: The more broguing a shoe has, the less formal it becomes. So, a full brogue is perfect for jeans, chinos and other casuals; semi-brogues can be worn with a blazer or sport coats; and quarter brogues can be worn as a dress shoe with a suit. Never appropriate for black tie or white tie events.
Wing-tips
What: Toe broguing that resembles a bird with its wings spread.
Wear with: Jeans, chinos and other casuals. Opt for smooth or uniform leathers to make the broguing shine.
Men’s shoes 101: Slip-ons (see, no laces!)
The monk strap
What: Have a metallic buckle and leather strap instead of laces.
Wear with: Can be dressed down with cuffed jeans or dressed up with a dapper suit. Match the metal of the clasp to your belt buckle, wristwatch and cufflinks.
Moccasins
What: The soles and sides are made from one piece of leather. A fashion necessity!
Wear with: Wear through the day, switching from a business suit to clubbing jeans.
Loafers
What: Resemble a moccasin on top but have a wide and fairly flat heel. A more casual variant is the driving moccasin that has a softer, less structured look and a dotted rubber sole.
Wear with: Jeans, chinos and casual jackets; only wear with a business suit when traveling.
The opera pump
What: A formal loafer made from black patent leather, with a grosgrain ribbon decoration on the cap.
Wear with: Black tie or white tie ONLY.
Tassel loafers
What: Loafers with two tassels on each upper; strongly reminiscent of the ‘20s and synonymous with the classic mod look.
Wear with: Jeans and a sports jacket for a relaxed but upmarket look.
Penny loafers
What: A white strap with a diamond shaped cutout runs across the top of the shoe.
Wear with: Corduroy pants, chinos, flannel slacks, linen and seersucker.
Boat / Deck shoes
What: Canvas or leather uppers whose rubber soles have a herringbone pattern cut into them for added grip on wet surfaces.
Wear with: Casual summer shoes and should not be worn with a suit, blazer or sport coat; work well with slim, streamlined jeans, khakis, slacks or shorts.
Espadrilles
What: Trademark rope soles – real or faux. In the summer heat, the rope soles breathe without getting your feet dirty like flip-flops or sweaty and sticky like sneakers.
Wear with: They’ll take you from the beach, to the barbeque, to dinner.
Men’s shoes 101: Boots
Ankle boots
What: Standard low boot, with a leather body, rubber sole and rounded toe.
Wear with: Versatile: can be worn under suits in business settings, on dates or for special events.
Dress boots
What: Short, ankle-length boots with a slight heel and built like your standard Oxford.
Wear with: A sport jacket, odd trousers or dressy jeans; only wear with a suit in cold or wet weather. For the latter, opt for thinner soles and glossier leathers.
The Chelsea boot
What: An ankle-high boot with elasticated side panels that run from above the welt to the opening.
Wear with: Can add a classic touch to jeans, but also give a slightly alternative look to a tailored suit. Polished leather can be formal or casual, while suede ones are for casual to semi-formal outings only.
The chukka boot
What: Ankle-length boots with 2-3 pairs of eyelets with open lacing on each side. Not to be confused with desert boots, which have a casual rubber sole instead of the traditional leather.
Wear with: Can hold their own in semi-formal or business casual situations.
Jodhpurs
What: Ankle length, round toe and low-heeled shoes fastened with a strap and buckle that wraps around the ankle.
Wear with: Fitted chinos, jeans, casual suits and sport coats; don’t wear them with baggy trousers. DON’T tuck your jeans or trousers into them!
Hiking boots
What: Provide support above the ankle with a suede or leather upper, padded collar, and soft leather lining. Also have a cushioned insole, padded tongue and a thick rubber sole.
Wear with: Jeans and outdoorsy pieces – think chunky knit jumpers, Barbour jackets, tweeds and cords. A chunky sock, worn ruched at the ankle, will add a tough edge!
Workwear boots
What: Originally steel-toed, the new generation of workwear boots subs in a nonmetallic composite material without sacrificing the toughness.
Wear with: Casual, rugged attire such as slim-fit indigo jeans, worker-wear jackets, flannel pieces and chambray/denim shirts (think stylish lumberjack). Skinny jeans can make these appear clumpy and unsightly.
Biker boots
What: The height ranges from above the ankle to below the knee, but all motorcycle boots boast a low heel and heavy-duty leather.
Wear with: A classic leather jacket, a relaxed fit pocket tee and dark denim.
The cowboy boot
What: A tall boot shaft at least above the middle of the calf, no laces and a heel of about two inches.
Wear with: Jeans (preferably a dark and slim boot cut), an Oxford shirt and a tweed sport coat.
The military boot / Combat boots
What: Run the gamut from ankle-high to under-the-knee, and are made from technical materials like waterproof leather, Gore-Tex and rubber.
Wear with: Dark denim (with a couple of cuffs or tucked directly into the boot), a vintage tee and a tailored peacoat.
Men’s shoes 101: Open-toes
Thongs
What: Flip-flops
Wear with: They’re beachwear, plain and simple – don’t wear them with anything other than shorts. And never (ever!) wear with socks.
Sports sandals
What: Several wide cross straps that go over the foot for support. Also waterproof, with an athletic sole for traction.
Wear with: Jeans, shorts or chinos.
Dress sandals
What: A slightly more formal version of sports sandal, with leather replacing rubber and metal buckles replacing Velcro straps.
Wear with: Perfect for spring and summertime outdoor events and with linen suits. DON’T wear with socks. Please.
All illustrations by Kristina Hultkrantz